2011年3月25日星期五

Fashion week fall/winter 2012 London-ladies ' details2012秋冬伦敦时装周-女装细节





      伦敦带来了许多令人兴 奋的个性细节,有些是我们之前已经在纽约时装周看到过的,还有一些是新的趋势。拼接组合仍保持流行主位,并扩展为对比面料的袖子,普遍与皮草饰边相结合。 装饰被引入到这一季,亮片是细节中的亮点,羽毛与皮草的结合十分受欢迎。流苏的运用带来几分新鲜感,巧妙的细节是矩形钩编。随着在线条上进行了一些尝试, 时髦的圆肩和落肩设计吸引了注意力。开叉继续向前推进,出现在长款和沙漏形状的款式中。 
London brings many exciting details, some fashion week in New York before we have seen, there is a new trend. Combination mosaic remains popular themes, and extended to contrast fabric sleeve, generally combined with Fur clothing ornaments. Decoration was introduced this season, spangle is the detail in the highlights, very popular combination of feathers and fur. Tassels used to bring something of a novelty, clever details is a rectangle of crochet. As the on the line a number of attempts, stylish rounded shoulders and falling shoulder design attracted attention. Forward vent, MaxMara, and an hourglass appears in the style of.



1.系腰带
系腰带突出腰部线条的款式固定地出现在伦敦发布会上,表现为贵妇风格以及超大号外套的设计中。
Belt
Belt prominent waist line style of the Department fixed to appear in the London Conference, the performance as Lady style, as well as oversized jacket design.
         
Margaret Howell (London) Clements Ribeiro (London) Jaeger London (London)
Margaret Howell (London) Daks (London) Jonathan Saunders (London) Matthew Williamson (London)




2.对比面料的袖子
拼接趋势的延伸表现在对比面料的袖子上,大部分表现在皮草和皮革面料上。
Contrast fabric sleeve
         splicing trend extends performance on sleeves in contrasting fabrics, most of the performance on the fur and leather.
      
Simone Rocha FE (London) Aquascutum (London) Burberry Prorsum (London)
 
Simone Rocha FE (London) Pringle of Scotland (London) Todd Lynn (London) Unique (London)




3.手工艺
就如我们在纽约发布会上看到的一样,这一季十分强调手工艺的运用。在伦敦,出现在 Christopher Kane 和 House of Holland发布会上的矩形钩编让人眼前一亮。Matthew Williamson将眼光投注在花纹缝制法,Pringle则采用了艺术手工毛衣的设计。
Is as good as we have seen on the New York Conference this season put great emphasis on application of handicraft. In London, appeared in Christopher Kane and rectangular House of Holland release crocheted makes people's eyes light up. Matthew Williamson vision by betting pattern sewing, Pringle adopted the artistic design of hand-made sweaters.
      
Christopher Kane (London) Christopher Kane (London)) Matthew Williamson (London)
 
Christopher Kane (London) House of Holland (London) Pringle of Scotland (London) House of Holland (London)




4.垂褶
垂褶在伦敦受到了更多的关注,尤其出现在连衣裙和半身裙的设计中。Michael Van Der Ham的垂褶天鹅绒服装也十分值得关注。
Vertical pleated 
vertical pleats in London received more attention, particularly appears in the design of the dress and side skirts. Michael Van Der Ham vertical pleat velvet clothing is also very interesting.
      
Michael Van Der Ham (London) Sass and Bide (London) Marios Schwab (London)
 
Michael Van Der Ham (London) Marios Schwab (London) Todd Lynn (London) Vivienne Westwood Red Label (London)




5.装饰
装饰以夸张的形式回归到伦敦发布会。最大的流行趋势是亮片,在Christopher Kane的设计中,出现了大面积鱼鳞一般的亮片装饰,其它的装饰还有金属,铆钉和串珠。
Decoration 
decorations to exaggerated forms of regression to the London Conference. Spangle is the biggest trends, in Christopher Kane's design, there have been large scale General spangle decoration, other decorations include metal, rivets and beads.
          
Christopher Kane (London) Christopher Kane (London) Jonathan Saunders (London)
     
Christopher Kane (London) Antonio Berardi (London) Temperley London (London) Matthew Williamson (London)




6.羽毛
这一季羽毛与皮草结合。Matthew Williamson将这一趋势诠释得最佳,他将羽毛与装饰物结合,并融入到半身裙的设计中。Maria Grachvogel and Elliot Atkinson自然的羽毛装饰也十分值得注意。
 Combining feather
feathers and fur for this quarter. Matthew Williamson is a trend that interpretation best, he combines feathers and ornaments, and incorporated into the design of side skirts. Maria Grachvogel and Elliot Atkinson natural feather decoration is also very notable.
        
Matthew Williamson (London) Matthew Williamson (London) Matthew Williamson (London)
Matthew Williamson (London) Maria Grachvogel (London) Elliot Atkinson FE (London) Matthew Williamson (London)




7.带有兜盖的口袋
作为一种实用型的细节,带有兜盖的口袋出现在伦敦发布会上,表现在运动装的款式中。
With Pocket cover pocket
as a practical details, pocket with Pocket cover appeared in the London Conference, performance sportswear design..
       
Peter Pilotto (London) Peter Pilotto (London) Jaeger London (London))
 
Aquascutum (London) Jaeger London (London) Paul Costelloe (London) Daks (London)




8.流苏
流苏被纳入到伦敦的设计中,亮点体现在民族风格的服装,吊穗和带有流苏边的毛衣上。
Tassel
tassel was incorporated into the design in London, bright spots reflected in the national style of clothing, hanging ears and sweater with a tassel.
       
Matthew Williamson (London) James Long FE (London) Temperley (London)
 
Sass and Bide (London) Louise Gray (London) Pringle of Scotland (London) Pringle of Scotland (London)




9.皮草饰边
由于全毛款式的流行,皮草饰边出现在衣领,袖口和衣服边缘上。
Fur clothing fringe 
as the hair style of pop, Fur clothing ornaments appeared in the collar, cuffs and clothes on the edge.
           
Pringle of Scotland (London) Unique (London) Unique (London)
Matthew Williamson (London) Burberry Prorsum (London) Giles (London) Jaeger London (London)




10.吊脖带
自上一季的70年代风格吊脖带领口风靡后,这一季的趋势有所下降,但是他们仍会出现在一些连衣裙和上衣的设计中。
Hanging on the neck 
with a quarter of the 70 's style after hanging neck leading popularity, trends this season has declined, but they still appear in a number of dress and jacket design.
     
Marios Schwab (London) (London) Nicole Farhi (London)
        
Marios Schwab (London) Issa (London) Maria Grachvogel (London) Maria Grachvogel (London)




11.和服袖子
和服袖子出现在伦敦的一些款式中,以Cristobal Balenciaga最为突出。
Kimono sleeves
in some styles of kimono sleeves appear in London, to Cristobal Balenciaga is the most prominent.
      
Nicole Farhi (London) Nicole Farhi (London) Pringle of Scotland (London)
        
David Koma (London) Kinder Aggugini (London) Burberry Prorsum (London) Central St Martin (London)




12.带有液体的塑料
Christopher Kane将带有彩色液体的透明塑料作为衣边的装饰,带有未来水生物的灵感。
With liquid plastic
Christopher Kane with color decoration of transparent plastic as the edge of the liquid, with water bio-inspiration for the future.
     
Christopher Kane (London) Christopher Kane (London) Christopher Kane (London)
        
Christopher Kane (London) Christopher Kane (London) Christopher Kane (London) Christopher Kane (London)




13.腰部周围有装饰的短裙
虽然腰部周围有装饰的短裙是纽约发布会的一个大的流行趋势,但是在伦敦,我们可以看到以更加夸张肩部的保守款式出现,以Mary Katratzou最为突出。
Waist with decorative skirt around
Although decorative skirt around the waist is a big trend in New York Conference, in London, however, we can see in a more conservative style of exaggerated shoulders appear, to Mary Katratzou of the most prominent.
     
Mary Katrantzou (London) Emilio De La Morena (London) Mary Katrantzou (London)
        
Mary Katrantzou (London) David Koma (London) David Koma (London)




14.拼接组合
拼接和色块组合仍是伦敦最重要的细节之一。皮革拼接仍十分流行,Michael Van Der Ham混合面料的针织衫也看起来十分新颖。
Combination Mosaic
Mosaic and color combination remains one of London's most important details. Leather stitching is still very popular, Michael Van Der Ham mixed fabrics knitted shirts also looks very innovative.
   
Matthew Williamson (London) Richard Nicoll (London) Pringle of Scotland (London)
        
Matthew Williamson (London) Acne (London) Michael Van Der Ham (London) David Koma (London)




15.褶裥
褶裥在伦敦不如我们在纽约看到的那样流行,然而它仍出现在半身裙和连衣裙上,主要体现在工字褶。
Pleated 
pleated popular in London as well as we see in New York, however, it still appears on the side skirts and dresses, mainly reflected in the Box.
   
Mulberry (London) Mulberry (London) Temperley (London)
        
Unique (London) Margaret Howell (London) Paul Costelloe (London) Meadham Kirchhoff (London)




16.深V领
虽然不是最大的流行趋势,但是深V领还是继续出现在伦敦发布会上。
Deep v neck 
although not the biggest fashion trends, but deep v-neck still continue to appear in the London Press Conference.
   
Paul Costelloe (London) Christopher Kane (London) Erdem (London)
        
Christopher Kane (London) Maria Grachvogel (London) Aquascutum (London) Erdem (London)




17.缝制花纹
缝制花纹让人眼前一亮,表现在乡村风格和机车风格的服装款式中。
Sewing pattern 
sewing patterns make people's eyes light up, manifested in country style and locomotive-style fashion.
   
Matthew Williamson (London) Matthew Williamson (London) Matthew Williamson (London)
        
Daks (London) Mulberry (London) Daks (London) Mulberry (London)




18.透视
如同我们在纽约看到的一样,虽然透视风潮有所减弱,但它仍运用在一些衬衫和袖子上。
Perspective
as we see in New York, although the perspective the wave weakened, but it is still used in some shirts and sleeve.
   
Charles Anastase (London) Emilio De La Morena (London) Simone Rocha FE (London)
        
Richard Nicoll (London) Emilio de la Morena (London) Richard Nicoll (London) Paul Smith (London)




19.肩部设计
肩部在这一季受到了一定的关注,包括圆肩,落肩和超大号夸张肩部的设计等。
Shoulder design
of the shoulder in this quarter was a certain amount of concern, including the rounded shoulders, left shoulder and oversized exaggerated shoulder design.
   
Burberry Prorsum (London) Burberry Prorsum (London) Burberry Prorsum (London)
        
Antonio Berardi (London) Mary Katrantzou (London) Burberry Prorsum (London) Todd Lynn (London)




20.开叉
就像我们在纽约发布会看到的一样,开叉是一个关键性的细节,它运用在宽松的拖地连衣裙款式以及沙漏式束腰紧身连衣裙中。
Vent 
is as good as we see in New York Conference, vent is a critical detail, used it in easy drag-and-dress style and the hourglass waist in a tight dress.
   
Peter Pilotto (London) Christopher Kane (London) Jonathan Saunders (London)
        
Matthew Williamson (London) Christopher Kane (London) Erdem (London) Sass and Bide (London)




21.裹身
就像我们一开始在纽约发布会上看到的一样,裹身成为伦敦的一个关键性的线条,尤其运用在半身裙上。
Wrapped 
up like we see on the New York Conference, wrapped into a critical line in London, especially on the application side skirts.
   
Aquascutum (London) (London) Matthew Williamson (London)
        
Marios Schwab (London) Matthew Williamson (London) Unique (London)) Matthew Williamson (London)
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